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/k/ - Guns in general Anonymous Comrade 02/03/2020 (Mon) 11:24:19 No. 5906
Just don't talk about gun control
What are some easy guns to use that I can get easily?
>>5907 .40 Gloc, light weight, easy to clean, powerful, ease of use. Good for beginners.
>>5908 what if I wanted to limit myself to a sovjet arsenal?
Which rifle is the best for beginners
>>5921 Something that shoots .22 LR, cheap ammo, no recoil, can be used in indoor ranges. Good for learning.
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Explain pic related. Just. Why?
>>6077 Meant to fold up for concealed carry of an SMG
>>6081 > conceled carry SMG Why not an uzi then? > foldable, light, new standard bullets Idiotic. Foldable? Why is it THAT big of a fucking advantage if you can... disassamble the others if you wanna save space... you already have to fiddle with this one when you fold it open... Light? So what? It's an SMG! If you can only hold handguns but want the dakka, there are options available for that... Maybe the issue with bullets of the new standards WOULD be an issue that this thing can solve... but wait 2 years for your "old" SMG manufacturer to come out with the previous models that confine to the standard. Seriously... this is a gun only for incels... made by possible incels.
>>5910 Honestly that’s dumb, don’t limit yourself for some LARP learn how to actually use guns and gain proper knowledge before hand
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I figure this might be a good place to ask as any. So I'm a writer who wants to write gunfights in his story in a plausible manner (not realistic because the story does include fantastical elements) so I have a few questions. >What would happen if someone fired off an entire magazine of a Type 56 AK when engaged in combat in an enclosed space (interior of a cargo ship in this case) where no-one participating has hearing protection? Does everyone just go deaf from it? >How hard is it for someone with no practical experience (but plenty in theoretical) in firearms to handle the recoil of a 7.62x39 round? What about in full auto? >Is .38 special enough to stop a man in one shot? If not can you recommend a better revolver cartridge? >How big is the danger of getting hit by ricochet when in a tight corridor? >How do you actually perform a speed reload on an AK? >How do you tell which of the casings inside your revolver's chamber are spent ones so you can remove them individually instead of dropping all of the rounds out of the chamber? Is there some indicator on the primer to tell you that it's been used? >Is obrez just a meme or is it actually useful in close combat? Oh yeah, and the setting is in the 90s so any recommendation for operator gear for maximum operating for that period? Kevlar vest and tactical rig recs would be especially appreciated. Thanks in advance for your time.
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>tfw live in Germany and getting a gun here takes a while, up to a year >thought about going through the process Eh, I'm too lazy. I'm just going to post a pic of my favorite carbine.
>>6644 Can one of you LARPing sissies give this man an answer already?
>>5910 Unless you live near Eastern Europe or you're looking to become a collector, don't. But if it's that important to you, get a CZ-75 instead: 9mm, comfy trigger; a great starter carry gun depending on the variant you get.
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>>6644 First some general advice, whatever firearms you use (if you identify them specifically) you should research enough that you know the basics of how they work and any distinct quirks. One thing you should also do is go on youtube or some other site and watch videos of people using those guns, including loading and unloading. You should also look up some kind of crash course on firearm usage and safety to know how it works so you don't write goofy shit like a character scratching their head with the muzzle of their pistol. >What would happen if someone fired off an entire magazine of a Type 56 AK when engaged in combat in an enclosed space (interior of a cargo ship in this case) where no-one participating has hearing protection? Does everyone just go deaf from it? Not permanently deaf, but there would definitely be hearing damage. Hearing loss is more the kind of thing you get over time from repeated eardrum abuse. But you'd get temporary hearing loss for anybody near the gun. Surprisingly small calibers can cause you do go mostly deaf for at least few seconds if you're close enough, like the person firing the gun. >How hard is it for someone with no practical experience (but plenty in theoretical) in firearms to handle the recoil of a 7.62x39 round? What about in full auto? Full auto in any caliber will fuck your aim completely if you have no hands-on experience. Even with experience, it will make it impossible to aim unless it's a fairly small caliber. You don't fire on full auto to aim your shots. You generally just point in the direction and hope the hail of gunfire makes up for poor aim, and that's if you're actually trying to hit someone. Most of the time full-auto is used for suppressing fire (something like 99% of bullets fired in combat don't hit anybody) - you are effectively doing area denial by making it too deadly to occupy the space. The space being anything from an open are to poking your head out from cover to shoot back. You use full auto to pin people so that someone can reposition to get a better shot on them, or just pray one of the bullets hits. If you are spraying full auto trying to kill someone you are usually wasting bullets and fucking up your aim for no reason. The exception would be something like a submachine gun or a machine pistol that makes up for small caliber stopping power with a larger number of hits. You would still be better off with semi-auto for that because the tradeoff of inaccuracy and lack of control usually negate any benefit from rate of fire (if you are good you can fire semi-auto very fast), and the farther you are from the target, the more you're going to miss. In practice burst fire is more useful for actually hitting a target than full auto. You can't really get more than a few shots off before your aim goes to shit, even with small calbier. Also to note, guns heat up a lot when fired, especially rapidly. The heating of the barrel and other mechanisms causes some miniscule warping that reduces the accuracy of the gun itself, independent of the user's ability to aim. >Is .38 special enough to stop a man in one shot? If not can you recommend a better revolver cartridge? Depends on a lot of factors, like where you hit, the grain in the round (how fast it fires basically), the kind of bullet, if he's wearing protection of any kind, etc. For an average unarmored civilian shot center of mass yeah. For someone with training, high on adrenaline, it depends on whether the bullet hits a vital organ or a major blood vessel. It probably won't stop them instantly, but pretty fast. This is the kind of thing where you have some wiggle room because the body is so intricate that you see all kinds of weird shit with bullets barely missing a kill shot. Just don't rely on this too much. If you want to make sure people die in one shot, they should be shot with hollow points and I'd bump it up to .45 or so. The .38 special is the round of gangsters who are not so much in gunfights but are assassinating each other across a table in a restaurant. In a firefight you want the other guy to drop ASAP because every second is more time for him to shoot you back. >How big is the danger of getting hit by ricochet when in a tight corridor? Depends on the ammunition and the material of the corridor, and how much of an angle the projectile hits the wall at. If it's metal or something you are liable to get ricochets, but with a lot less penetration because the bullet is probably tumbling instead of flying true. If you're talking about rifle rounds, they would probably punch through the wall unless hitting it at a shallow angle, meaning the target has to be pretty far away. >How do you actually perform a speed reload on an AK? You can find videos of people reloading on the internet, probably better than hearing someone describe it. IDK what a speed reload is when you have a magazine-based rifle, though. Those reload pretty fast just reloading normally. >How do you tell which of the casings inside your revolver's chamber are spent ones so you can remove them individually instead of dropping all of the rounds out of the chamber? Is there some indicator on the primer to tell you that it's been used? Yes, when the revolver fires, the hammer strikes the casing. Typically a revolver uses center-fire rounds, which have a distinctive (sometimes 2 visibly distinct metals) primer cap in the center of the rim. In an un-fired cartridge you will see a flat primer. If it's been fired, there will be a dent where the hammer struck to make it fire. If the ammunition is rimfire, there's no visible primer, but there would be a dent on the back of the casing still, usually along the rim. Additionally, like mentioned above, shit will be fucking hot. You can get (usually mild) burns from touching fired casings. Do be aware that different revolvers load and unload differently. Usually the older ones are the ones made to unload individual bullets and those aren't very conducive to selecting your rounds to fire (see the classic colt single action army, the cowboy gun). Modern revolvers usually have swing-out barrels and unload casings all at once by pushing part of the cylinder against all the casings to slide them out together. These may or may not have the space for you to grab the back of the casing and pull it out manually. If you have a character who loads a revolver with specific rounds and selectively fires them, you might want them to use a break-loading revolver (pic related - a BB gun, but illustrates the point), which is more specialized but also more useful for such a purpose. These usually poke the casings out (or use springs to eject) making it easier to select individual rounds. Bear in mind they are less sturdy than other styles and usually for smaller caliber as a result, although Smith and Wesson made a .45 like this. They're also not really used any more, so this is more appropriate for some kind of custom-designed weapon, as is the need to fire specific individual rounds from the cylinder. >Is obrez just a meme or is it actually useful in close combat? It's sensible enough assuming it makes sense in context - if mosins (or similar rifles) are common enough where a character is it might be easier, but generally handguns are available enough to just get one of those. Any shortened barrel will drop the gun's power and accuracy, and using a pistol with bolt action is not very practical, especially at close range where firing the short barrel gun is most effective.
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>>8697 >>6644 Oops, forgot to answer this part of the question: >How hard is it for someone with no practical experience (but plenty in theoretical) in firearms to handle the recoil of a 7.62x39 round? Rifle rounds have the benefit of being fired by rifles, meaning the bigger the gun the more mass to absorb the recoil. They also often have shoulder stocks and other designs that help. Firing one shot at a time is not bad with a round that size and typical rifle that uses it (by design). It's (bigger) pistols, shotguns, and full auto where the kick is an issue (especially to a noob). If you're firing single shots as a newbie you are more likely to get sore from the kick than the kick itself to fuck up your aim. Newbie aiming problems are more a factor of not having muscle memory than recoil. There's various things you can do wrong and have to learn to do right, like pulling your aim to the side when you pull the trigger. This is much much less of an issue with rifles than pistols because you use both hands steadying your aim at different points. >Oh yeah, and the setting is in the 90s so any recommendation for operator gear for maximum operating for that period? Here's a big list of '90s firearms, including the year and country. If you want to make characters look silly, give them the P90. https://www.militaryfactory.com/smallarms/guns-1990-1999.asp
>>5906 If you are American, a STANAG-compatible 5.56 rifle is a must, the AR is it right now. And of course, a 9mm pistol. Also do not forget the most important tool of them all, far more important than ammo or the individual weapon: people People power is what makes a military unit a unit. Do not neglect to bring friends with guns and train small unit tactics. Fatties and weaklings do not belong. One heart, one mind, one fist.
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What type of ammo will be more viable in the future when living in Eastern eu? 7.62 or 5.56?
>>9453 Still in EU? Probably 5.56, but it's good to cross-train and go for whatever the police/military are carrying in your area. Any NATO nation should stay 5.56/7.62NATO. However, even Russia and other nations switched too 5.45, which is a very neat round, comparable to 5.56. I say learn whatever your country uses first, and cross train with whatever is commonly used around you. 9mm is also GOAT.
I'm considering a glock for target shooting. Recommendations?
>>9954 >What the fuck is this argument The point of the argument is that just as with government invasion of privacy, the opposite is also true. Mass armament (as if ready for war) is provocational, you might as well be fucking Sparta. If, after the Revolution, Proles must cling to guns in the paranoid idea that "can't let the guvement do something bad!" there is no point to the Revolution, no security, no peace, nothing. >muh state >abolish it!!! Ankids and their "just skip to stateless systems !!!!" are morons >are you even Leftist? See >>9705... and the rest of the arguments on the thread you knee-jerk reaction idiot.
Looking for something cheap, something like a PSA AR-15. Any other suggestions/alternatives if this isn't really that good?
>>10322 PSA AR-15 seems to be the best option for low budget specially if you order the parts sepretly and assemble it by yourself, I think that would be like 350 bucks
>>9883 Genuinely go to a range and try them out,idk how many people I know bought a glock off a recommendation then hated it. G19 btw
Anyone living in riots/protesting areas in us? How’s it going for you guys, here it’s been tense since it started specially when militias started coming in
>>10372 Hello glowwie
Lame I know but since I live in the UK does anybody have a recommendation for a good Air Rifle?
>>10377 tbh i wish i was cool enough to be a glowie, i am just trying to bring some life to this thread. >>10381 i'd suggest watching youtube vids, some of those small game hunting ones are interesting
Holy shit, I went to the gun range for the first time ever and shot about 50 rounds. I was nervous as hell and flinching in the beginning, but near the end started easing up a bit. I rented a cz 75. I had a few questions though. I thought the safety could be engaged with the slide locked back, but it didn’t work. Also with the safety engaged the slide would not rack back? How come the slide has to be released before the safety can be turned on? Also, I had a DA/SA and can vaguely remember, but I think the safety can be turned on while the gun is in either SA mode or decocked in DA mode. Can someone confirm? I think the gun I rented didn’t have a decocker, but during the range I decocked it manually to practice. Also I didn’t realize but it took quite a bit of strength to rack the slide back and lock it. I’m sure I was doing it wrong as I was kinda blocking the ejection port.
>>9647 I want to rig up some glowing targets so I can practice shoot at glowies, how does that stick figure in the video glow?
>>10323 >>10322 The problem with the PSA rifles is that most of them don't come with chrome-lined barrels. For high volume of fire, this is a must, but that is an edge use-case. Remember also that you should get a: sling light optic In that order, unless you're using NVGs, in which case, buy that with a PEQ-15 or something. The russian stuff does not have limits on how strong it can be, so import and use at your own leisure.
>>10507 Do not worry about quirks so much. Some weapons can be placed into safe at any point, and some cannot. Learn the weapon you are using first and foremost. Big picture, then details to fill in that picture. You are still at the big picture stage, so stick to that for now. If you are flinching, go for something smaller and do a lot of dry-fire practice. Dime/washer drills are the bread and butter of dry-fire practice. Get on that first, and then worry about the other stuff. And remember to gather others that can do the job. Don't just gather people you like, but those that have the physical and mental fortitude for combat, and while you're at it, find out if you have it in you as well.
Got the solution to the AK vs AR debate: An AR chambered in 7.62x39
>>10516 Those are actually quite terrible. If you're in the US, go for an AR. Same goes for pretty much any NATO country where they are popular. If you live in fucking Mongolia or some shit, then yeah, get an AK somehow. But here's the thing, most people here aren't looking to join a military organization. They're just looking for self-defense. If that's the case, then just get yourself a good, concealable handgun.
>>10515 Oh really, is there any reasoning for why some can engage safeties at any time and others not, any examples of a few? On the cz 75 I rented once the safety was on the slide would not rack back either and was locked. I think it could be on in both sa and da mode with hammer cocked back or decocked. However, there was a “half cocked” option on the hammer as well. What’s the purpose of the half cocked option? The dime drill seems cool, but the range is kinda expensive and I don’t really want to dry fire there much of the time lol.
>>10525 As for the reasoning, I wouldn't be able to tell you with any kind of certainty. I'm not a firearms designer, nor have I ever been involved in procurement of that level. As for weapons that can be placed on safe, the M9 can be placed on safe at any time, and the hammer should go to half cock when this is done. You will not be able to manipulate it while the slide is back for mechanical reasons. As for dry-fire practice, don't do it at the range, do it at home. Even a CO2 airsoft pistol can help you with this, but obviously my experience is only with real firearms, so this is second-hand information. If you can, get yourself your own weapon. Pistols are great, but harder to handle for most people. That being said, if that's your end-goal, start there and build up your skills. Get training if you can, and remember that you'll get better little by little.
For all you 'gun-smiths' Take a lesson from the PPS-43 and its simplicity. The AK is a great assault rifle but as demonstrated with cheap Norinco crap, you either take the Warsaw Pact/Soviet stuff or don't bother. Moreover the PPS is even simpler and just as rugged than the AK. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hRn9uqkKkOc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGGguFuFln4 https://www.scribd.com/document/224115207/Soviet-PPS-43-Submachine-Gun
Thinking about getting my Mosin professionally cleaned, should I?
>>10660 How bad is it? It's a nice milsurp gun, but don't throw money at it.
>>10653 >not the Owen You're making it too complicated...
>>10668 >Owen a decent gun but the top mounted ammunition is a pain for anything remotely like a picattiny rail. You could modify it to be placed underneath but that's more of a hassle than just making the PPS (2.7 work hours with 6 kg of scrap metal and a metal lathe.
>>10667 The bolt is a bit sticky, and there are little patches of cosmoline on it. I'll probably just clean it myself, though.
>>10674 Good shit. Do you own just the Mosin?
>>10676 Yep, along with an air gun. Thinking about getting some more milsurp one of these days. Maybe a yugo m48 or a SKS, maybe even a Mosin PU or carbine if I could find it.
>>10828 Good stuff. I would collect more milsurp, but I can never justify it to myself.
Should we buy a registered or unregistered gun? In my state it’s legal to own an unregistered gun but it has to be kept at home and cant be transported anywhere. The question is would it be more advantageous for you to register the guns so the glowies know you are armed/not to mess with you easily, or to have an unregistered weapon so you can get the drop on people instead? Seems like there are a few places online you can buy unregistered guns. Any risk in doing so? How do we check an unregistered weapon wasnt used for murder or something?
>>10886 Wait, are you outside the US? Sorry, not familiar with any of this. In either case, gun tracing is trash and doesn't work. Never register your weapons if you can avoid it without breaking the law. Stay within the law as much as you can.
You know what the world needs? A guide on the construction of firearms, and I'm not talking instructions on how to build such and such a gun. Every single book on building x, y or z has listed the tools and time it takes to build the gun and each part, but there's no overarching archive of these parts and the tools and time required to build them. There could be three SMG manuals posted right now requiring entirely different parts and labour, but until you've read them all you don't know if you have the correct tools to produce any of them. There's no reason you can't attach a rifled barrel from a Prof Parabellum manual onto a Luty, but without reading both you wouldn't know. Taking apart the manuals and arranging them so that they're listed by tools and time required would allow for more effiency.
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https://twitter.com/cannibality/status/1278264327015821313?s=20 >In 1944, American workers gave the leader of the Soviet Union Joseph Stalin unusual dagger-a revolver. <The inscription says "death to the fascist invaders" >there is an alternative history universe out there somewhere where Stalin killed Hitler with a gunblade Also see the Holy Sword of Stalingrad. http://www.russianswords.com/Stalin-english.htm
>>10511 The costumes come from here but they cost like 70 bucks. https://glowyzoey.com/collections/featured-products/products/adult-led-stickman-costume They're just made of LED strips, which are pretty expensive for something you're going to be shooting at. You could probably get the same effect for less money with some regular bulbs and creativity. Maybe actually get a reusable target.
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I've been trying to find schematics/blueprints/whatever of a TKB-517 (ТКБ-517) both on English and Russian internet, I even adventured a little on the Russian internet and the only page I found on it was 404'd and not archived. Is there anywhere on the internet that would have these? It's supposedly a better and cheaper AKM that wasn't produced simply because AKMs were already rolling out the factories by the time the design was perfected.
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>>11149 Also have a collage of AK prototypes I made
>>11085 Holy hell it's got a kriss blade too. Bumiputera Stalin confirmed.
>>11149 Looks like an AKM mated with a PPS-43
>>11166 Yeah there's a few different types of furnishings, I don't know if that pic is an old one out of storage or if Kalashnikov Concern made it from old documents just to show off. Video of their gun: https://en.kalashnikov.media/video/weapons/panoptikum-tkb-517-germana-korobova Quick rundown: >German A. Korobov, Russian gun designer from Tula, began the development of assault rifles soon after the World War Two,when he designed the TKB-408 bullpup rifle for 1946-47Soviet Army trials. Despite the failure of TKB-408, Korobov continued the development of various assault rifles, both in bullpup and traditional configurations. During late 1940s, he tried gas delayed blowback action in his series of TKB-454 experimental assault rifles, all chambered for standard issue 7.62×39 ammunition. While these rifles displayed some good results in accuracy department, these also showed insufficient reliability. By the 1952, Korobov switched to the Kiraly-type retarded blowback action, with the two-part bolt that uses braking action of the lever, interposed between boltparts and receiver. This action allowed for significant increase of accuracy, as well as simplification of design and production, compared to then-standard KalashnikovAK assault rifles. >During mid-1950s, Soviet Army initiates newtrials for improved assault rifle design in the same 7.62×39 M43 caliber.Korobov submits his improved TKB-517 rifle, still based on the Kiraly typedelayed blowback action; this weapon was extensively tested against modified KalashnikovAK rifle, as well a number of other designs, and found to be superior toall. Korobov was found to be most accurate and controllable in full automaticmode (primary mode of fire, according to Soviet tactical doctrine), especiallywhen fired from the shoulder or from the hip. It was also significantly lighterand less expensive to make than modified AK. Nevertheless, Soviet Army preferred less effective, but familiar and already well established Kalashnikov AKM over the moreeffective and lighter, but entirely new design. >TKB-517 is delayed(retarded) blowback operated weapon, that uses two-part bolt system, designed prior to WW2 by Paul Kiraly of Hungary. In this system, bolt has two parts -lighter breech block with breechface and extractor, and heavier bolt carrier. A two-arm lever is interposed between these two parts; lower arm of the lever rests against the receiver when bolt is fully closed. When gun is fired, pressure in the chamber forces the cartridge case backwards and against the breech face.Bolt begins to travel back, but the lever acts as a mechanical disadvantage,transferring the short movement of the light bolt to the longer movement of the heavy bolt carrier. This action is sufficient to slow down initial movement of the breech face before the bullet leaves the barrel. Once the pressure in the barrel is low enough, the lever breaks the contact with the receiver, and therest of recoil cycle both bolt parts complete as a single unit. Similar system later has been used in the French FAMAS assault rifle.receiver of TKB-517 has been made from stamped steel, furniture was made from wood. Charging handle was attached to the bolt carrier at the right side. Safety/ fire mode selector was located above the pistol grip, also at the right side of the gun. TKB-517 used standard AK/AKM type magazines, including large-capacity 40 and 75-round ones, developed for RPK light machine gun. It uses the same system as this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWQFtRId85U But I actually found out about the 517 from this gun lol, I'm mostly just curious about what's different between the two. It could be exactly the same for all I know because it was developed after the Soviets captured a bunch in Hungary.
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>>11150 Aren't those iterations from Abakan trails? Not to be pedantic, but AS(M) doesn't really qualify as an AK platform by any stretch and I doubt many of the TKB and AEK prototypes would either.
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Recently I bought a rifle. It's PSA's PA-10. I know that PSA is an unreliable company and I should have bought something from a much more reliable company like Zavasta Arms, Cugir, Norinco, etc. In fact, I was saving up for an AKM (preferably an npap85) and had enough to purchase one in early March. Then the panic-buying began and the prices went beyond me, from around $720 to $950 not including tax, mark-up, FFL fees, and whatever else there might be. I would still have liked to save up for one, but they are only available if you wait a month for restock and then another for shipping to a distributer. So I chose to buy the PA-10, which is their AR-10. The rifle does not reliably push cartridges into battery when loaded. The rifle always goes into battery when unloaded. The rifle slam-fires when autoloading (it did this all of the three times that more than one round was used at a time), but never slam-fired any of the more than fourty times that a round was chambered manually. This was all proven to me Friday, a few days ago. Before that, the Saturday nine days ago, the rifle fired out of battery after 24-26 rounds. This burst the plastic magazine which burned and bruised my arm. I'm fine :). What isn't fine is having spent what I did on the rifle. The FFL company _did_ cooperate, but the old dude who was the only one cool enough to help has the fucking plague and is dying. He was going to try to find the issue (we didn't even know if the problem was the ammo) and fix the rifle in eight days. He supposedly replaced the upper assembly with something else from the company. The handguard is clearly different but the barrel is still PSA PA-10. I can't find any serial numbers anywhere on the upper assembly. That the upper assembly was swapped was told to me by a relative that was with me when I bought the rifle, was with me each time I shot the rifle, and is good friends with the old man dying to the fucking plague. I don't want anything to do with the manufacturer or FFL store at this point, but am fine with having a gunsmith look at it. So how do I troubleshoot the rifle?
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To improve the Falconfire drill out the airflow-restricting plastic to have more air going behind the dart, and put a better spring in it for more power.
Hi gun people. I'm moving to a house out in the country and want to get a gun for sport shooting. Just general improvement, no hunting. Any recommendations? Seems like the entry level babby shit would be some sort of 22, but I was looking at bolt action .308 stuff by ruger and savage, and they seem cool. I really don't know shit about guns, so I might be totally off base with what I should look for.
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>>11601 There are many things to look at when choosing a rifle. There are the cartridge, the barrel, the action, the trigger, the furniture, and the capacity for accessories. I won't detail very much. Cartridges are hell to consider because you might not have the opportunity to try and compare before making your choice. You mention .308, which you should learn to call 7.62x51. I do not recommend it. It is almost unbearable in semi-auto (AR) and you will absolutely gain a nasty flinch when firing, making precise shooting impossible (sustained semi-auto isn't as badly affected). This can be curtailed by buying and getting used to a slightly weaker cartridge like 5.56x45, but at that point why even buy 7.62x51 in the first place? Unlike 7.62x51 or 5.56x45, 7.62x39 gets dicked by wind at and past 300 meters. Other options to consider are .450 Bushmaster, .50 Beowulf, .458 SOCOM, 6.5 Grendel, and 6.5 Creedmore. The calibre of the first three are in inches. Keep in mind that you shouldn't expect more than twenty-round magazines for 7.62x51 and the 6.5s, or more than ten-round magazines for the others. All of this is within the AR platform and I have seen bolt-action rifles in everything but 7.62x39. AKs are available in 5.56x45 (NPAP-85). Barrels come in many different shapes and sizes. A longer barrel will give you greater accuracy and bullet-speed at the muzzle, or muzzle-velocity, while shorter barrels are less heavy. A thicker barrel's mass will better allocate the heat given off by the friction of the bullet when the cartridge is fired but can are heavier, whereas shorter barrels can not as easily allocate that heat and so may get too hot, losing their accuracy. Some barrels can come chrome-lined or nitride-lined on the inside, preventing a loss of accuracy, corrosion, or else, while having other benefits or drawbacks that I've no fucken clue about. The action can determine the rifle's recoil, reliability, accuracy, and more. Roller-delayed blowback rifles (Cetme, PTR, MP5, Famas) have reputable reliability and less felt recoil, but none have floated barrels. A floated barrel has better accuracy than a non-floated barrel. Gas-operated rifles (AK, AR) have small tubes connected to the barrel partway through, and so never have floated barrels. But every rifle is different, with different lengths of its barrel, and different placement of that barrel's connection with the gas system, making some rifles' barrels closer or farther from floated and more or less accurate than others. Bolt-acion, break-action (Thompson/Center's Contender), and other rifles are easily free-floated and thus more accurate than others. Many non-bolt-action rifles have alot of free-space for dust, mud, dirt, debris, and so on, or space for errors in the design or manufacture of the rifle, making them less accurate (but probably more reliable depending where you take it). The trigger is your most important interface with the rifle. If you want a rifle and want to eventually grind off more inaccuracy, you must only buy a rifle with a tweakable and replacable trigger. There are two types of triggers, the single-stage and two-stage triggers. The single-stage trigger reminds one of the keys set on a mechanical keyboard. Pressure is applied without any reaction by the trigger or key until it suddenly gives in, with all of the pressure you applied slamming it. Two-stage triggers are much different. Pressure is applied to a point where the trigger gives in, though with great resistance, until the second stage that requires greater pressure is met. If you use a two-stage trigger, you will easily learn to flinch. Using a variety of calibers, especially weaker ones, can help to confuse and unlearn the flinching. The furniture are the things in your livingroom that you sit on and the things on your rifle that sit on you, on your forward, supporting hand, and in your shoulder. Don't touch the rifle to your bones. Do pull the rifle into you. The buttstock is that backward end which can look triagular. The handguard is that forward piece that separates your hand from the hot and unwieldy-when-fired barrel. These are the same and only called the stock on a famas, aug, mosin, etc.. The capacity for accessories is driven by mounts at the forestock or at the side of the reciever, picatinny rails, cobra mounts, etc.. From these can be mounted a wide variety of scopes, lasers, flashlights, sights, and mounts for scopes. Other accessories to keep in mind might be muzzle devices, bayonets, ladle-holders, slings, and so on. If you plan on buying a cheap, sub-$500 bolt-action rifle, I recommend that you buy an SKS or save up to buy an actually good bolt-action rifle. But this really hits because cheap scopes are garbage. It is said that you should spend just as much on your scope as you should spend on your rifle. If you now plan on buying an SKS, you might consider saving up to buy an Armalite from a reputable manufacturer (you will need to read up like hell), or an imported AK (Cugir, Zavasta, WBP), or any other decent semi-auto rifle (PTR 91, M1A, Mini-14, SU-16). Anything good, even a decent bolt-action rifle and scope combo, costs around $900 or more except for the SKS. If you buy an SKS, remember to fully disassemble it to clean out the firing pin, even if it's already been cleaned. If there is cosmoline around the firing pin, the firing pin will be stuck in place and it will not fire or it will fire all loaded ammo without stopping.
>>11606 >barrels closer or farther from floated and more or less accurate than others. and thus* Of course, no barrels float, they all have to be attached to the rest of the rifle somewhere. But the less touch the better. This is what is meant. :) And don't buy a bolt-action rifle if you're going with a sixteen-inch barrel. It should be twenty or more.
>>11207 >Aren't those iterations from Abakan trails? Yeah think they are, just found them nestled away in a wall of text when I was looking around for first gen stuff, shoved them all in a picture and saved it without looking lol >Not to be pedantic, but AS(M) doesn't really qualify as an AK platform by any stretch and I doubt many of the TKB and AEK prototypes would either. They aren't(?), when I saved it I meant it as in "post-WW2 prototypes" not realizing the page I was on spanned decades. Don't really know much about them though. >>11606 Good effort post. FAMAS is lever-delayed not roller btw and SKS is semi-auto rather than bolt-action but I think that's just a typo on your part
>>11606 What anime are you always posting those mpv-shots from?
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>>11608 No, SKS is my recommendation if you want a cheap bolt-action rifle because it has the aesthetic while not being cheap garbage and it also covers the intermediate-calibre semi-auto niche. Two birds mostly with one stone if these are the birds you're looking for.
>>11803 He should sportify his SKS to turn it into an assault rifle :^) Thing with the US is you may as well get an SKS and convert it to taking magazines. Most of the alleged assault rifles at this point are semi-automatic anyway so there's no real difference between a magazine fed semi-automatic rifle and what they call assault rifles. >>11601 Here's how you can swap an SKS out from stripper clips to magazines in just a couple of minutes for very little cash: https://youtu.be/C-XD7G4kyYU?t=86 This guy swears on the tapco ones. If you ever want to add more stuff to it like sights or whatever you could get something like this for it: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SKS-Railed-Stock-System/324223530957 Don't think they make them anymore but they're on ebay fairly regularly Or you can go galaxy ghetto brain and just strap a 3D printed laser sight to it https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3509179
>>11606 Thanks! I'm a really confused by your explanation on cartridges though. It looks like an SKS is 7.62x39 but before you said that 39 gets dicked by wind? So I should be looking for 7.62x51 stuff but that stuff is terrible for recoil so I should look for 5.56x45? Or should I go for none of the above and look at the 'other options'? As for the price, I don't really have a limit. I can afford to spend more than $500, but I figured for a first gun I wouldn't + shouldn't go balls to the wall and buy like a $2400 gun or something. But $900 for a rifle and scope seems reasonable to me.
Which readily available ammunition is deadliest? Also how do you recoup the costs of a gun if you have to move. Can you take it with you somehow to another country?
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>>11921 >If you ever want to add more stuff to it like sights or whatever you could get something like this for it This links died for some reason but if you want to save even more money you can pick up a part for the standard SKS that adds rails for what's currently on sale at $10, it's also actually in stock and won't require lurking ebay https://www.acmemachine.com/accessories/sks-one-piece-rifle-picatinny-scope-mount/ Considering most of the furniture alternatives either don't have rails or are $100+ picking this up while it's on sale would be a good move, even if you get it before your gun. If you ever want to swap out the wood furniture later you don't have to worry about getting ones with top rails then. Someone in the reviews also posted their mags + rail modified SKS, so you can get a good idea of what it would look like. >>11965 7.62x39 and 5.56x45 are fine tbh, 7.62x51 is overkill. 5.56 has more abundant ammo but the guns are more expensive even at their cheapest, and even then getting the cheapest 5.56 doesn't mean it would be as good as an SKS. The SKS makes more sense for a cheaper starter gun because then you have a decent gun, the time until you can afford an objectively better 5.56 isn't so pressing.
Pistol Caliber Carbines tell me about them what's some suggestions on the good ones
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>>11971 >5.56 has more abundant ammo This is not true anymore. The panic-buying boomers have soaked up everything. >>11965 "Dicked by wind" was an exaggeration, but it is much worse than other rounds. Just practice shooting on windy days and you'll learn to overcome it. Yes, 7.62x51's recoil is a big bit of a bitch, but it's necessary if you want to go farther and harder than the intermediate rounds. 5.56 might not be legal for hunting in your area and it does not carry the punch of 7.62x39. It was made to penetrate a thin steel helmet at 300 metres. It barely did this. >But $900 for a rifle and scope seems reasonable to me. If you have the eye for it (probably not as high a bar as you might think), you should try sticking to iron-sights. It's more fun, it makes you feel cool and classy, and there is probably a higher skill ceiling. You'll never find a 400 metre range available to you or need to take it past like 150 metres anway, so why pay extra when you can just aspire to get good? I don't recommend the larger magazines for SKS. Of course, if you buy one then you need to buy multiple to actually justify it unless you plan on reloading the magazine e v e r y t i m e. They have this front weiner that makes them impossible to fit into a chest rig upside down and if you have them open-side-up the weiners look silly. >>11984 .45 weighs more than 5.56. No pistol cartridge can beat 5.56 in anything but the availability of ammo. If you have a suppressor and .300 BLK isn't available for you, then a PCC makes perfect sense. If you reload .45 or already have hella .45, then it makes sense to buy something chambered in .45. Even if you actually meant to ask about a "subgun" like the MPX instead of carbines, their slightly smaller sizes don't provide much of an advantage the absolute reach of a slightly larger AR in .300 BLK (or folding-stock AK with subsonic 7.62x39 in the Soviet Union). Want a gun to fit in your backpack? 10.5" ARs already can by shortening the telescopic stock, popping the retainer pins, and decoupling the rifle. Brownells recently released their variant of the AR-18 as an upper assembly for AR-15s, so you can even do away with the buffer tube and have a folding stock to save even more space. Of course, shorter AKs with folding stocks already exist. And the actually good PCCs are so terribly expensive.
>>12005 I get that the mags aren't the greatest since they're essentially just a cleverly engineered replacement for the clips and the part that feeds them, but come on man who gives a fuck about looks besides both of us. Your first gun has to get you to survival. That's why I'm suggesting the jankiest shit to get a gun that will hold up in modern combat out the door. Everyone's out of stock on everything and my man needs a dangerous firearm. Why has nobody made a new system for replacing the clip system, rather than just swapping it out with an awkward mag that just fits in place? Surely it'd make more sense just shaving a bit off the mags or furniture, make something for them to be put in in the shape of the old parts, add a mag release and you've got a full on civilian rifle. Am I missing something here?
Serious question: is there enough interest for a dedicated /k/ board? I'd love to see one, as I hate going to reddit for the sra subreddit, or going to one of the lolberg/fashie /k/ boards.
>>5910 Use whatever is most available in your probable AO. If you're in the US, that means just go 5.56 & AR-15. You can have larpy ex-soviet stuff for fun too, but take care of your business end comrade.
>>12029 No. Look at how few posts there are and how old this thread is. Last time we had a dedicated /leftyk/ board it was so underused that it had 10 threads up, of which 2 were spam and 1 had 0 posts and the rest had 10 posts in each. >>12032 Skimreading dumbasses need to fuck off and stop strawmanning.
>>11071 Learn toolmaking first (and just general machine shop use) and that stuff is obvious. That's why it's not included - anyone that wants to figure that out should be a tradesman (even if a covert one) anyway.
>9770 >The internet makes this phenomenally easy, to where even /pol/ and /b/tards can track down the most obscure locations in hours Just some examples of this Finding Shia's flag (with no land features): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vw9zyxm860Q Finding the 9gag rock: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzFykQv6Q08 Identifying a masked Antifa member: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muoR8Td44UE 4chan finds ISIS training camp and calls in airstrike from Russia: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LG1FWWX7ZPk This shit is so fucking easy that its not even funny.
>>12033 I read it and still hold it's a flawed opinion. And yes, that's the fundamental argument being made. Modern military and state surveillance make it implausible, plus high HDI so less revolutionary potential. Right? I don't think that's misrepresenting it at all. Oh and "disarm the workers afterwards but they get training so it's Ok". I'm not discussing the topic in depth though as it's glow bait. Just genuinely surprised anyone still thinks that way.
>>11225 Send it back. They probably fucked up the gas port and you're not getting enough gas, resulting in short-stroking. They have a warranty for a reason.
>>11984 Hi-point carbine in 10mm, or whatever. Those things are a fun gun, but can be used for home defense. Really, almost all of them are okay.
>>12029 I'd like to see a /k/ board. The fact is that this is a topic of which many are ignorant of. It's not a hard topic, but I would like to see more boards, even if they are a bit slower.
If people are done having autistic arguments about gun control, I have a little question/another topic that is at least firearms related. Does anyone here hunt/ever been hunting? Deer, small game, duck, wild turkey idk, doesn't matter. I'm kind of wanting to try and get into it in addition to getting into guns in general. If nothing else, for knowing how to put meat on the table if civilization shits the bed.
>>9647 Music sauce?
>>12347 Hunting's easy depending on your state. What are you interested in? Squirrels, you can generally just shoot from your backyard and an air rifle. Coyotes, hogs, and other pests are unregulated and you can hunt them as you will.
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>>12347 You want to get into guns? A gun is your interface to the cartridge, that pile of gunpowder in a case of brass plugged on both ends by the bullet and the primer. When the primer is struck it goes pop which makes the gunpowder go pop. This happens in a chamber known as the chamber. This pop is enclosed in all but one direction, muzzleward. The gas pushes the bullet muzzleward and out the muzzle. If the barrel is rifled, the bullet will spin like our mother Earth. So what's the method by which the primer is struck? A pin which makes the gunpowder combust into fire and which makes the gun "fire" is called the firing pin. It is often struck forward and into the primer by a hammer. And how is the hammer moved? A conpreviously blocked spring extends and pushes the hammer, or by the magic of putting the spring on the other side of the hammer, that conpreviously blocked spring compresses and pulls the hammer. So what's the method by which the spring is set and the method by which the spring is allowed to move the hammer into the firing pin? The spring is set by having pulled that external hammer back. This is done in old revolvers by pulling the hammer back directly. This is done indirectly in the AR-10/15, the MP9, and the G3 by pulling the charging handle back. This slides the bolt that carries the firing pin back and across the hammer, setting the spring into place so that it may be released for pushing or pulling the hammer into striking the firing pin. But the charging handle is not the only thing that slides the bolt that carries the firing pin back and across the hammer, setting the spring into place so that it may be released for pushing or pulling the hammer into striking the firing pin for those guns. In the AR-10/15, gas from the combustion of the gunpowder within the cartouche goes though the barrel and into a port, a hole, in the barrel and through a small pipe. This expanding gas moves from the pipe into the forward half of the bolt-carrier-group, or the BCG. The BCG is constructed in such a way that the expanding gas forces the forward third of the BCG into twisting. This unlocks it from the chamber and the BCG in its entirety may slide backward and over the hammer, pushing it back and setting the spring into place for another firing. Why does the BCG need to be stuck into place at the chamber? It is for delay! If there were no delay by making the expanding gas go all the way around, if there was no delay because the backward movement of the BCG was forced by the immediate pressure from the expanding gas, then too much gas would escape to anywhere but through the barrel and the bullet would not be as quickly propelled. And that gas might expand into the magazine, rupturing it and burning my left arm that was on the handguard. The AK does something similar. The expanding gas from the cartouche goes through the barrel and through a port, but now hits and pushes backward a long rod. This rod pushes the bolt back and over the hammer and so on. Other rifles are roller-delayed, lever-delayed, and so on. But how is the expended cartouche extracted and how is the new cartouche loaded? For the AR-10/15 there exists a small tongue on the front of the BCG that is spring-loaded. It hooks onto the rim of the cartouche when that cartouche is loaded. When the BCG moves backward, it is still holding on but a small prick on the opposite side at the front of the BCG pushes. This contorts the expended cartouche and flings it sideways. This is timed so that the expended cartouche flies out at the ejection port. A new cartouch is loaded when a spring in the buffer tube in the stock pushes the BCG forward. The BCG barely catches the top of the backward end of the new cartouche and pushes it forward into a ramp on an innard part of the magazine that feeds new cartouches to the rifle. This is known as the feed ramp. The cartouche is manipulated by the chamber into the correct position for firing. So what rifles are there? What are their differences? >>11606 Depending on what you're interested in hunting, and depending on whether you want more than just hunting, the real cheap shit might not be too bad. But SKS still is the best option if you can't part with at least $700. Make sure that there is ammo available for what you buy. 7.62x51 has all dried up. But I have seen so many boxes of 7.62x39. Don't have an FFL transfer an SKS for you. Buy only an SKS that you can look over for rust and pitting and so on. What brands are there for different rifles? For AKs you should only buy foreign rifles, imports. There are WBP, Cugir, Zavasta Arms, Arsenal, and the option to buy a parts kit for the obscure ones that you'll never have a chance at finding and then sending it to someone to have it built. For ARs you will have to do your own research. There are Aero Precision, H&K, Daniel Defense, Palmetto, Bear Creek, Anderson Manufacturing, and a shitload of others. Don't buy an AR-10, especially not one with a PSA upper. PTR Industries reproduces H&K's G3 and MP5. Savage Arms and another one like Bergera or Gerbera have good reputations for their bolt-action rifles. There are the generic brands that make generic rifles like Ruger, Remington, Winchester.. Just make sure you wear muffs over earplugs. Hearing aid costs more than hearing protection.
>>12455 Thanks based mpv-shot anon for posting this informative effort post and ignoring the shitposts. Bravo!
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>>12456 I am now a named being.
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Hello, from now on I'll be removing any posts that are relating to gun control (for or against), I understand that you may have strong feelings about it either way but this isn't the right place to discuss it. Thanks everyone.
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Was the AKS-74u good in its original purpose?
>>12487 Yes, as it was a crew gun. It's something like 2/3 the size of an AK74. Trying to stick an AK74 out of a BTR hatch would probably be quite a pain and would take away precious time if you're in a situation you have to do that. If you were in the habit of keeping your gun on the roof though you should probably try and get something that doesn't kick so much, but I'm not sure how "fluidly" guns move around the Soviet/Russian army if you get what I mean. It's also pretty much your only option if you're a helicopter pilot. Paratroopers also still use it and I don't think I've seen anything hinting at its replacement so it must have a fairly high approval rating considering the amount of new designs Russia produces.
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Only slightly related to guns, but how does Afghan war -era Warsaw Pact infantry equipment such as chest rigs and body armour measure up to modern equivalents in both Eastern Europe and elsewhere? I've been playing Escape From Tarkov plenty recently and found that at least the vests of armor class 4 with steel or titan plates were decent in protecting me from being oneshotted by anything up to 7.62x39 but anything beyond that was pretty much guaranteed to kill me depending on whether the vest was in prime condition or not and where I got hit. Also what are the main differences between 7.62x39 and 5.45x39 in terms of penetration value and what kind of damage they do to flesh when they pass through the body?
>>13225 Did some digging because I don't know much about armour: >The bullet-proof vest 6B1, which became the main bulletproof vest among soldiers in Afghanistan, was not suitable for the conditions of fighting in this country. Moving in the mountains and the weight of body armor (about 5.2 kg) had a very negative impact on the fighting efficiency of soldiers, and therefore the command decided to abandon the bulletproof vests of this model. To replace the 6B1 at the NII Stali in 1981, a new body armor with a 6B2 index was developed. >The bullet-proof vest 6B2 consisted of two interconnected covers for armored elements. Features of the connecting structures made it possible to adjust the waistcoat to the dimensions of the fighter.The waistcoat perfectly coped with protection from splinters, as well as pistol bullets, but made its way from the Kalashnikov assault rifle. The weight of the bulletproof vest was less than that of the predecessor (from 4.2 to 4.8) and differed depending on the size. >In 1983, the Research Institute of Steel developed a flak jacket, which was given the index 6B3.He possessed 3rd class of protection, but at the same time his weight was 12.2 kg. Later, a modification was developed in which some structural elements were replaced, and the weight of the bulletproof vest approached 8 kg.The modification carried the index 6BZT.With a large mass, this bulletproof vest can be called innovative for the Soviet army, as, among other things, it had integrated pouches, that is, it was a bulletproof vest with an unloading system.Pouches and mounts on the bulletproof vest provided the opportunity to carry 4 stores for AK / RPK, 4 hand grenades, a gas mask, a radio station. >The 6B3 vest was developed due to the inadequate protection of the 6B2 against automatic weapons. Developed alongside the 6B4, it was made to protect the user from AKM rounds. It has inner slabs/plates made from Steel or Titanium. The thickness and hardness of the titanium plates varied between vest types. Behind the plates are soft "SVMT" inserts to reduce the chance of bullet penetration occurring. These vests came in sizes 1 and 2, 1 being good for 48-54 and 2 for 54-60. Size one fits 12 plats per side and size 2 fits 14 plates per side. The vest features 4 pouches for 5.45 AK magazines, 4 grenade pouches, and 2 general purpose pouches. SVMT = SVM = Aramid fibre = Kevlar >If the constructors were developing new bulletproof vests with great enthusiasm, then this can not be said about the helmets. In Afghanistan as a helmet used helmet NL various modifications which differ podtuleynym device. The protective properties and design of the dome repeated the model SH-39, then the SH-40, then the SH-54, the secondary SH-60 and the secondary SH-68 (which had the modifications of the SH-68M and the secondary SH-68N) was developed.The last model (SH-68) lasted the most in armament in the army and was used even in the Armed Forces of the Russian Federation. So pretty much trash at the start until it approached modern standards, even an old US flak jacket can stop pistol rounds and shrapnel and the 6B1 was from a similar time so it needed an update. All the references are to steel and titanium inserts so I assume they didn't have any ceramics, which would have eased up on the weight problem. 6B3 would be heavy but a good purchase even today. Thing is with helmets is a lot of people say that the sort of rounds hitting your head in Tarkov would turn your brain to liquid, but I've seen pictures of happy soldiers posing with their shredded helmets after getting hit in the head with a rifle round, emphasis on the singular, and obviously dead soldiers aren't taking photos with their helmet but they do work and will outperform when lower quality ammo is being used. Slight tangent but helmets also have their use outside of gunfights, Iraqi police recently took to the practice of lodging tear gas canisters in people's skulls, in one case it took the whole top of some kid's skull off evacuating/liquefying the brain in the process. Buy a helmet. >Also what are the main differences between 7.62x39 and 5.45x39 in terms of penetration value 7.62 has better penetration but drops off quicker along with worse accuracy, some of the reasons it stopped being the favourite >and what kind of damage they do to flesh when they pass through the body? Another one of the reasons the 7.62 fell out of favour was because it kept coming straight out the other side of targets, a bullet will kill you faster if it takes a non-linear angle inside your body and stays in there. Obviously having two big holes in your body will also kill you, but it doesn't do it as quickly.
>>13225 6B13 and 6B23 are pretty good, with neck protectors and more gut protection to protect against artillery attacks.
>>13225 That shit sucks, and is more expensive than modern equipment if you live in the states or western Europe. If you live in those areas, that equipment is so plentiful and easy to fix, that it shouldn't be a problem to attain and maintain. As for plates, modern ceramics are cheap, plentiful and can hold up to all sorts of shit. I'm sure they can be made to fit. Steel plates have their own issues and aren't that much cheaper. Now remember, you don't have to go for gucci shit, but at least get shit with an NSN if you're going to buy used. Plenty of USGI gear out there and you can have a full kit for little to no money. Just make sure you train in it, because modern gear is far more comfortable. You're going to want to change it a lot. Train in groups, and train to standards. Remember training is more important than gear.
>>13225 http://archive.is/kfKEq Depends on what you're looking for
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Most of the replies seem to be concerning body armor (including helmets) specifically, I'm assuming there's not really much of a difference between using a modern ammo rig in comparison to an older one then besides carrying capacity. >>13233 >>13234 This proved to be quite useful for my intended purposes, thanks. >>13274 Oh don't worry, I'm not in the business of actually purchasing this kind of body armor myself (not sure if I can even get that shit legally over here in Finland without having a good reason for it, authorities tend to be kinda suspicious about that sort of thing), I'm not that much of a sovietboo. I'm asking about all of this purely for writing purposes. Hope someone else finds this advice relevant though. >>13276 Seems pretty interesting at a glance, I'll give the full article a read at some point.
>>13287 > I'm assuming there's not really much of a difference between using a modern ammo rig in comparison to an older one then besides carrying capacity. Comfort and weight are big factors. A lot of old gear gets really heavy when wet, and is uncomfortable to wear and use. Helmets vary, most modern helmets can be very comfortable. Steel pots still work, though, but no good way to mount NODs.
I just got the bayonet for my m48! side question, are 8mm's useful for the revolution?
>>13343 The secret is to put night vision on weapon taps head.
>>13347 NODs on weapons is a big meme. Wearing them on your helmet increaeses your situational awareness, and provided you use an IR laser like a PEQ-15, you can also aim your rifle very well. You can even fire from the hip (which makes you feel like terminator). If you're in the market for that, Zenitco sells very powerful lasers and they are far cheaper than the civilian lasers in the US, which have restricted power settings. As for NODs, you can find a good pair for $2300. Night vision is expensive now because there is no competition and tubes basically have to be assembled by hand. China and Russia are making it cheaper. That shit is going to get no more expensive than a rifle eventually so you kiddos can get in on it.
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Sendero Luminismo-pill me on vests that fit at least three SR-25 mags. I like options and m81 or olive dab. Also the rifle is fixed if anyone remembered. I also prefer something that can be worn over a plate carrier or is a plate carrier that isn't unbearable to use without plates. Thanks in advance.
>>13872 D3CRXH from Haley Strategic. Comes in all the colors you like, and can be attached as a placard to a carrier. Dedicated 7.62 chest rigs aren't as common as 5.56, especially in those patterns, but you can always get a universal rig and get your own pouches. Honestly, I have separate setups for different weapons. I still have my gunner's kit and would wear that over my slick carrier if needed, but my main plate carrier is just set up for 5.56.
>>13965 What are the options for universal rigs? I don't know much of the scene, what are the options?
>>13967 Universal rigs are everywhere, just make sure you get a trustworthy brand. They have PALS webbing (also called MOLLE, but that's wrong), and you can weave pouches into them, and do as you see fit. But honestly, what is your use case? Are you going to be moving on foot with a ruck? Or are you going to be in a vehicle? Are you employed in a DMR role? Are you trying to be covert, or are you going for an overt presence in an area? Give me a list of what you're trying to carry on your person, if you don't mind. I'll be up for a couple of more hours.
>>13969 Are you military? Why are you on bunker-chan if you're military? I'm organised in a rural, heavily wooded and brushy area, no need for going covert. Yes, I have a bag, and I need to be loosely vehicle-compatible. The area is reallllyyy brushy, and I would like to not snag on everything. I already have a belt and plans for the belt that include a pistol holster with space on it or next to it for a magazine, a magazine pouch for rifle, a pouch for pliers. What else do you recommend? Where should I put the knife? I have a bag with the usual, magazines, foodstuffs, maps, rain gear, party material, and water. IFAK is easily accessible in the bag and this is how it is for all of my bromos. I don't want anything sticking out of me because of snag and easy movement. So what do you recommend? Not just the chest rig, what are some tips all around?
>>13978 >Are you military? Why are you on bunker-chan if you're military? Maybe. And for the same reason you're here. As for the rest, the best thing you can do to avoid snagging is to tie and tape down your straps. Conduct checks on you and your buddies before every exercise. The biggest thing that gets caught is the rhino mount on your helmet if you have one. A good tip is to attach that as a whole item and keep it in a pouch on your person, then attach it only when you're actually going to be using it. Common sense, but even military guys do that stupid shit. Second, belts are good, but can fuck with your ruck. Make sure you try it out and can wear it comfortably without it digging into your back. Keep your back slick, and if you do have a hydration pack like a camelbak, make sure it isn't permanently attached. At the very least, you should be able to place it in your ruck and then in whatever pouch you've left on your back, so as not to create a gap between you and the ruck. Not the biggest deal if in a vehicle, but make sure you can get in and out without too much hassle. Also, keep the side of your pistol mostly clear, or limit it to a flat admin pouch, as well as ensuring you have a low to mid-ride holster. This will ensure you can draw your weapon if need-be. Some kind of retention solution is prudent as well. You can go with a lanyard, or simply having a bungee over the pistol to keep it in the holster. Do not, for the love of god, buy a serpa holster. Those are shit. Esstac makes some good stuff, and that's where I got my belt. Mine mostly stays on, so think things through. The IFAK should be kept on your baseline kit, that is, whatever you aren't going to be taking off. I keep mine on my belt, but putting it on your rig or carrier should be just as good. Keep another in a pack. The IFAK on yoru kit is for others to use on you or for you to use on yourself if need-be. Never use your IFAK on someone else. Use an extra one in your pack instead or whatever is in their kit. You should have an SOP for this so that everyone knows where the IFAK is located on everyone else. You can either mark it or designate a place. A common one is in the rear left side, almost to the back, but enough so that it won't interfere with your ruck. The multitool can be kept almost anywhere. I keep mine in a pocket in my pants, but have carried it in my admin pouch either to the side or up front. Doesn't need to be anything fancy, just something you can use to cut 550 cord, tape, etc. You should have a head lamp, red and white light, and make sure your maps are red-light readable. The knife is best kept on your kit. I like to carry it near my left shoulder, but it shouldn't interfere with shouldering the weapon on that side either, nor should the straps of your ruck rest on it. This is a recipe for pain. As for the holster, if I'm reading it right, you have both the weapon and magazines next to each other. I would highly recommend you keep them opposite of each other so that you can reload faster, and to keep a speed pouch for an extra rifle magazine. However, seeing as you seem to have an SR-25, this might not be such an issue. It will be if you're a rifleman. Something to think about. Things to think about: Knee pads. Bounding movements are a bitch, and will fuck your knees up if you aren't careful. I personally never used mine and my knees are fucked. Helmets. If you don't have one, you should. One of the leading causes of casualties are TBIs(Traumatic Brain Injury). It doesn't have to be a ballistic helmet, but it should protect your head in case you take a fall or something falls on you. I highly recommend the standard ACH. It's cheap, works, and while it may not be as light as the new high-cut helmets, it does provide more protection and can do all the same things. Yes, you can even wear peltors under it. It's built with that purpose in mind. Just get yourself another strap for it, because the issued one sucks. Don't mount too much stuff on it, just the necessary stuff. Put on a helmet cover on it too. It will dampen noise when you brush against things, and you can use it to weave vegetation into it. Soft covers. A boonie is always good, and if you aren't moving or getting shot at, is more comfortable and easier to work in. If you have two, you can turn one into a veil. All in all, seems you're doing well. Make sure you have at least enough room for six magazines on your person. The standard is eight, but, I find that's overkill. Six is the sweet spot, and you can always carry more in your ruck. Keep dry clothing, to include socks, and maybe an extra pair of boots for long outings in your ruck. Keep this all in a wet weather bag. They're green and are about $8 on any milsurp store. I have one for every bag. Keep a sleep system. The snugpak stuff is good, and is much lighter and packs smaller than the USGI sleep systems. Make sure you have a bivy cover as well. And for one last tip, I would say dummy cord your optics, and other important items to your rifle or your person. You do not want to be ten miles into a movement just to find that you no longer have an optic or a pair of NODs. Anything you can't afford to lose should be tied down. Pouches should be built with this in mind. Some guys carry the pouches with bungee cords. I like them too, but I have closed top pouches as well. Don't worry about the velcro too much. If you're having to reload, that velcro isn't going to be louder than whatever is going on around you. Also, carry a weapons cleaning kit with plenty of CLP. This should be kept in your ruck. Carry a rite-in-the-rain notebook with an appropriate pen or pencil. Keep these on your person or admin pouch. They are useful whenever you are making sector sketches or to write down things before sending them up. Keep laminated smart cards for anything you might need like 9-line medevac, etc. Keep extra water in your ruck apart from your camelbak. If you carry canteens, use them to fill up the bag instead of drinking form them. This way they won't slosh and make noise. Keep comfort items like baby wipes, ibuprofein, a hygiene kit, and a boo-boo kit in your ruck or assault pack. Moleskin is also good if you're prone to blisters. Never let those go untreated. If you develop a hot spot, wait for a halt, then fix it. You do not want to be slowing the others down because you've fucked your feet up. Take care of your feet. Take care of all your body parts for that matter. Have a good pair of eyepro and gloves, earpro too. Wear them and camouflage any exposed skin using a compact you can buy at any online store. Learn how to apply face paint. It isn't just making random patterns. Regular rule of thumb is that lighter colors go in shadowed features and darker colors go in prominent features. You can stripe or blotch, or combination of the two. Try it and see what works. Signaling items are also good a VS-17 panel and chemlights are a must have for TLs and up. Smoke, and other items are also useful. Make a PACE plan for all these things. You should have backups to your backups and pre-determined SOPs. Pre-plan and rehearse. Don't go into things blind. A lot of surplus gear is good enough for the most part. I did just fine with it and I've been doing the job for more than a decade. However, there are better things out there, just avoid obvious shit like condor and so on. If something has an NSN number, chances are that it's good. I myself have been issued some better gear and have a lot of my own gear as well. Do this for long enough and you'll learn what does and doesn't work.
>>13979 PT 2. If you train long enough and hard enough you're going to do away with the useless stuff and move on to good stuff. Obviously this is just a small group of tips on an internet post, but you should be training hard. Every weekend if necessary, but at least once a month. Make sure you or your leadership have a concrete training schedule and stick to it. There are tasks that you must train for every time, and some that only go quarterly, but every training even should get you more familiarized with a concept or introduce you to a new one. Do not get complacent. This is the most important part. PT on your own as well, and make sure you're pushing yourself. Obviously without the money and training the government provides, you can only do so much, but that is not an excuse. Make sure you read appropriate field manuals, and apply theses concepts wargame it, and conduct AARs in order to improve your training. The fascists are doing this much already. You need to that and more.
>>13979 Great effort post >Learn how to apply face paint. It isn't just making random patterns. Regular rule of thumb is that lighter colors go in shadowed features and darker colors go in prominent features. You can stripe or blotch, or combination of the two. Can you give a couple of picture examples for the do and don't of this?
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>>14243 Yeah. This pic is a good example using striping. Could use some more colors and less symmetry. Symmetry attracts eyes, and human brains are built to look for it. Also, he needed to cover more skin. Still, the fundamentals are good. Cheekbones, lips, and other prominent areas of the face are darkened, and the under-brow, lower lip, and under the nose are highlighted. The second picture is just black face. Don't do blackface/greenface. Colors should not just blob together at a distance, but create a gradient. Harder when painting your face, but it can be done. Remember the fundamentals of camouflage: Shape Shine Shadow Silhouette Spacing Movement Light Keep these in mind, and you'll be better concealed, not just your person, but your gear and hide sites as well. Utilize OPFOR to test how good you are both at hiding yourself/movments and how good you are at detecting them as a unit.
best pistol and assault rifle in nato countries
>>14253 M4 variants and any 9mm pistol that you like. As a rule of thumb, you want to use what the cops and military use.
Should I have someone with experience tighten my prebuilt AR's barrel or can I do it myself?
>>14659 What do you mean, "thighten"? Is your shit loose? Send it back for warranty work. If you're talking about accurizing, don't worry about it. For a standard M4, 3 MOA is more than good enough. If you are out of warranty, I'd take it to a reputable gunsmmith. Either way, don't fire this weapon if the barrel is actually loose.
If I zero 7.62x51 with a 20 in barrel at two-hundred metres, should the bullet still be rising at three-hundred? I have another armalite with a Huldra MkIV upper in 5.45x39 and a 16 in barrle. Where should I zero it? Is that a good enough company? Is hitting a bit wider than the black torso of the standard sillhoutte with irons bad? What red dot might you recommend for less than 200 dollars to be used up to 150m? >>14662 I read on a thread about PSA's rifles that their barrels were the loosest this user had ever seen. Maybe they meant the barrel nut? I'm a new owner. But no, mine's not loose in any way that I could notice. The rifle had less than a half-inch horizontal spread but one outlier at less than two inches away horizontally at three hundred meters. It was probably with a foot of vertical spread. This was five shots with FC's match king, 308. Prvi Partizan shoots like shit with it though. I hope it's okay to ask so much even when I can find the answers elsewhere. I just can't find the answers each time that I search, don't want a dead thread, and don't want other people missing out on some good answers.
>>14701 >If I zero 7.62x51 with a 20 in barrel at two-hundred metres, should the bullet still be rising at three-hundred? No. >I have another armalite with a Huldra MkIV upper in 5.45x39 and a 16 in barrle. Where should I zero it? This would be beyond my area of expertise. Generally a 200m zero is good for most intermediate calibers, but I do not know the common practice. >Is hitting a bit wider than the black torso of the standard sillhoutte with irons bad? Yes, generally it should fall within a 12" circle at 300m. Luckily, this just means you need more trigger time. Unless your weapon is defective or out-of-spec, this is something you should be able to hit even with irons. >What red dot might you recommend for less than 200 dollars to be used up to 150m? Sig makes some good stuff. Just bought a Romeo 7. It resembles the comp M4 from aimpoint, which are my preferred optics when it comes to red dots. I'll let you know in a few months, since I do beat up my stuff a bit. >I read on a thread about PSA's rifles that their barrels were the loosest this user had ever seen. Maybe they meant the barrel nut? I'm a new owner. That's odd. PSA generallly isn't too bad, but again, I've never owned one myself. It doesn't hurt to have a torque wrench and tools to double check the torque specs, but if it isn't giving you any trouble, then this might not be a priority. Other than my own builds, I've never had to tighten a barrel nut on a pre-built rifle. >The rifle had less than a half-inch horizontal spread but one outlier at less than two inches away horizontally at three hundred meters. This looks pretty good. >It was probably with a foot of vertical spread. This looks like you might need to work on your fundamentals. The rifle sounds fine so far. Focus on gaining a steady position and breathing. Relax and shoot at your normal breathing pause. It's easier if you take the shot on the exhale pause. Do not hold your breath, this makes it worse. >I hope it's okay to ask so much even when I can find the answers elsewhere. I just can't find the answers each time that I search, don't want a dead thread, and don't want other people missing out on some good answers We're all here to help each other, comrade. Relax. I would recommend you look into magnified optics for your rifle, though, and save up a bit. A 7.62NATO rifle can provide excellent support at intermediate ranges up to 600m. Get good at what you do and you'll be hitting there in no time. I would also advice you take stress shoots to learn your breathing better once you get proficient. Go take a run, or do 50 push-up, burpees, etc. This is good for testing your fundamentals as well as building on them. If you can shoot like this, you can shoot in almost any circumstance.
Is anyone else having a hard time finding ammo in their area? Walmart,local gun stores, even some pawn shops have been low on .22 and 5.56 to the point I can maybe get a box once a month twice if I’m lucky
>>15335 It's sold out everywhere. People are preparing for a Biden election, and thus gun control. I have some stockpiled, but don't worry, you can still train. Remember to do that, even if you can't get proper trigger time. Just work on dry-fire drills as well as your battle drills and PT.
>>15340 Where should I train? Everywhere is closed and I live in the city, I still do PT tho
>>15384 Classroom training is where you want to be at, as well as simple ready-up drills, which can be done at home, dry-fire drills, which also can be done at home, to include dime/washer drills, and so on. There is never an excuse not to get more familiar with what you're doing. Add in more job-specific things like Kim's game for would-be snipers and recon elements, and you have enough to keep you going through this pandemic. Keep up the good work, and remember to be discrete about everything. Even though everything we're doing is perfectly legal, there are those people that would do you harm based on association alone. Train and operate in silence.
Anyone else disappointed with Ivan's What About Ammo? Was waiting for it for a while and when it came out it was basically just an updated Luty ammo manual. https://twitter.com/Ivan_Is_Back/status/1272557616242348034
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>>15402 Poor PPSh :(
>>15404 >>15410 Think of how good it would be for drivebys
>>5908 terrorist default weapon
>>15396 honestly didnt think it was going to be anything special
>>15479 I got myself excited for some DIY centerfire ammo
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>>15610 enough to arm the homies
>>15610 Actually kind of cool. AKs in 5.56 get thumbs way up from me. Don't know if real or airshit, though.
>>15610 Are those yours?
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Has .38 special suffered from the ammo shortage? I'm thinking about picking up a revolver because I won't shoot it that much and will probably not maintain it etc.
>>15618 Revolvers are a bit more delicate and sensitive to rust than semi-autos. It's a bunch of clockwork shit compared to very physically simple semi-auto. That being said, you should maintain every weapon you own. It takes no more than a bit of CLP, rags, and a bore brush. There is no excuse.
>>15618 And to answer your question, yes, it has suffered. It's about $.60/round at the cheapest.
>>15622 Well perhaps a better phrase would be "neglect". I would without a doubt clean it every time I fired it.
>>15626 Firearms are durable mechanical goods, if you keep it in a clean, reasonably dry environment without dirt and salt or excessive firing residue in it there is little to go wrong, just keep the springs eased (hammer/striker down) for long term unattended storage and there's very little that will actually go wrong, similarly ammunition kept in cool dry dark places will last much, much longer than the manufacturer says it will on the box Just get a second hand glock or something, clean it after using it and store it properly when you aren't
>>15613 >>15616 They're Khyber copies, built in the mountains of NW Pakistan where there's a large cottage industry of arms manufacturing. Vice did a documentary on them years ago that's pretty interesting where they make a load of guns by hand, not sure if they've managed to get lathes yet. They don't have the AK gas piston and have an AR cocking handle so the AK parts are likely purely cosmetic, maybe due to stylistic choice by the craftsman or they're just easier to build. They could absolutely copy a full AR, but when you're producing guns by hand you probably want to find ways to cut down manufacturing time. >>15618 Revolvers also don't drop the brass when fired ;)
>>15637 > They're Khyber copies, built in the mountains of NW Pakistan where there's a large cottage industry of arms manufacturing. Vice did a documentary on them years ago that's pretty interesting where they make a load of guns by hand, not sure if they've managed to get lathes yet. Dera Adam Khel? If I go to KPK soon i'll check that place out.
>>15638 I went and found where I got the image and you're exactly right! Had it on my HD so long I had forgotten. https://twitter.com/CalibreObscura/status/1178371795503763458 Here's some gun guys who live there, maybe if you ask nicely they can show you around https://twitter.com/KhyberArmoury https://twitter.com/Ansar_Akbar Be sure to bring us some pics back :)
>>15639 Damn dude, I knew Pakistan had a gun culture but I thought it was mostly limited to dated munitions, so this is where you guys get all your fancy stuff from. Here in India the gun laws are pretty cucked, probably for the better though, since you wouldn't want the angry right wing mobs run amok with all sorts of firearms. The rich groups would probably overwhelm the military itself (not like they don't already), since they use pathetically outdated weapons and are under-equipped at that as well.
>>15641 It used to be shoddy old rifles and stuff but since the Vice documentary on them they've definitely improved. It's of course inferior to military grade stuff, and a lot of them are prone to jamming because a large portion of the parts are made with hand tools copied from military grade weapons they get their hands on, but there are some incredibly talented gunsmiths in there who can make them just as good as the originals. You can see them pulling off mag dumps on their twitters without much issue. Khyber guys stand out because they do it in the open and with rudimentary tools and were the first to really be known about, but there are quite a few underground arms companies nobody knows the location of that you see crop up from time to time. Probably based in a machinist sweatshop or after-hours off the book work at an arms factory, presumably in the former Warsaw Pact and Yugoslavia. The poor armaments and lack thereof in the Indian mobs is probably down to a lack of political will to arm them properly, wherever there are lathes and electricity guns can be whipped up on a pretty large scale. Unless they're all just woefully incompetent and dim, which seeing the state of the Indian right is a possibility.
>>15642 The mostly procure cheap Soviet era weapons as best, since they get circulated into black markets and between suppliers, due to them being mass produced and replaced old militias just scrap them off. Though after independence a lot of local shady gunsmiths did manage to construct makeshift weapons with essentially bare scrap metal, screws, pipes and gunpowder, they are still used but are slowly being replaced as they lose their efficacy and people in general finding ways to import much better military grade equipment. We mostly buy our equipment from Russia and Israel that is used up and cheap, I would say Pakistan has a much more modernized force overall and guerrilla trained, it is just vastly outnumbered in terms of capacity and formal tactics and training.
Anyone into skeet shooting?
hey folks which products would you recommend for reloading my own rounds?
>>15924 one of them cartouche-holders on a stick that you slap into something hard to toss the bullet out the cartouche in case you fucked up. get a mechanical scale, you can't know whether or how an electric scale fucks up that shit's like black magic. get some real precise bolt-action rifle to really test your rounds if you care about making your shit tight. don't worry about making your shit tight if your using intermediate calibres and don't reload if you're not worried about making your shit tight.
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>>6084 There's a number of folding SMGs of that same design. >>6084 >Why not an uzi then? Because the fold up into a more compact space than an uzi? An Uzi is just one type of SMG.
>>6644 >What would happen if someone fired off an entire magazine of a Type 56 AK when engaged in combat in an enclosed space (interior of a cargo ship in this case) where no-one participating has hearing protection? Does everyone just go deaf from it? Something interesting I learned recently, is the loudness is determined by the type of round and the length of the barrel. Because the barrel needs to be long enough to burn all the powder, or there will be more boom when it comes out, meaning louder and brighter flash. >How hard is it for someone with no practical experience (but plenty in theoretical) in firearms to handle the recoil of a 7.62x39 round? What about in full auto? I wonder if anyone here has shot full auto before. You can find ranges most places in USA that you can try a full auto at. If this person had practical experience in theory they wouldn't really use full auto I think. My general understanding is it's more or less considered useless on anything other than on something belt fed or with a drum mag or something. The rate of fire on the type 56 is 10 rounds a second. So on a standard magazine, that's 3 seconds of depressing the trigger. On a drum mag that's 10. You gotta figure in war, people are often fighting from a position where they can keep a surplus of magazines to go through as they continuously dump them, and the point of full auto is more fore "fire suppression" than to directly hit stuff most of the time. Nobody wants to get up and run from their cover when they can hear 10 bullets whizzing by every second even if they aren't well aimed. There's a reason the military changed their rifles to 3 round burst from full auto. They decided soldiers were wasting too much ammo with full auto. >Is .38 special enough to stop a man in one shot? If you hit them in the spine, brain, throat, arteries, lungs, yeah. >If not can you recommend a better revolver cartridge? Uhh depends what you're going for .38 special is a cartridge for guns that are designed to be small like snub noses. .357 magnum, .44 magnum, 9mm? <If it's not practical to carry a shotgun or a rifle, there isn't a big difference in the performance of the major handgun calibers (.380 ACP, .38 Special, .357 Magnum, 9mm, .40 S&W, .45 ACP or .44 Magnum). https://www.wideopenspaces.com/best-handgun-caliber-for-self-defense-debate-resolved-for-good/ >How big is the danger of getting hit by ricochet when in a tight corridor? High, depends which direction you're talking about. Ricochets will always be going faster the smaller the angle between their initial trajectory and the surface they're ricocheting off of like all projectiles. Imagine a tennis ball. So basically what I'm saying. If you're standing perpendicular to a wall and fire at it, the possibility of ricochet might be zero depending on the bullet, because it will flatten. If it is mostly grazing a surface, it will just slightly redirect itself and keep much of the energy. So if you're shooting down a long hallway with hard walls, like in your cargo ship example, yeah the ricochets will maximize the amount of projectiles flying down the length of the hallway. >>How do you actually perform a speed reload on an AK? https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=speed+reload+ak
>>15637 >They don't have the AK gas piston and have an AR cocking handle so the AK parts are likely purely cosmetic It's the opposite: “The manufacturer(s) of these rifles have gone to great lengths in order to imitate the appearance and some of the modularity of the AR-15 self-loading rifle. Generally the modifications to these rifles include an mid-length polymer handguard, a ‘Picatinny’ type rail affixed to the top of the dust cover in imitation of a ‘flat-top’ design, an A2-type front sight base, A2 ‘birdcage’ type flash hider and other muzzle devices, and sometimes AR-15-style collapsible stocks mounted on buffer tubes.” “The cosmetic influence of the AR-15 is best seen in the front section of the rifles. The handguards are most often of the standard M4-type polymer design with an aluminum heat shield. Less common are those quad-rails. Both are likely of Chinese origin. In the examples found, all handguards are mounted using a delta-ring system. There are no known instances of ‘free-float’ handguards on the Darra rifles.“ https://looserounds.com/2019/10/24/dara-ak-15s/
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>>16162 >the laptop gun was real
>>16172 >Perfect Dark. I don't know why I've seen anyone make a real auto sentry with a real gun. I guess it would probably be against the law, because it would count as a booby trap and booby traps are illegal. Man I remember seeing in the mid 00s people making homemade airsoft auto sentry that seemed to work perfectly. I guess the only difficulty with them is keeping them from being fooled by any moving objects. But it would be easy to make one that's impervious to small arms fire and can automatically guard a direction for you (just step in front of it lol.) Frankly doing something like the John Wick shit would probably be the best method, would even be a better sniper than a human at long ranges.
>>16182 >Frankly doing something like the John Wick shit would probably be the best method, would even be a better sniper than a human at long ranges. By that I meant something where you have a laser pointer that the auto turrets will target. Only saw the trailers, haven't seen the movie, but I had an idea like that like that before the movie came out. Mine was better frankly. My idea was to have a multiple drones with pistols following you that could auto target things on the ground when you point at them with a laser.
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>>16168 Interesting link, never seen this before. What I meant was that while there are AR cosmetic parts on it, the internals were probably solely AR, with the AK parts (the receiver pieces pretty much) on it just being there for ease of production or whatever and having no bearing on the internal function of the gun besides some structural tweaks. I was basing this off the rear cocking handle and presumably AR piston inside, since the handguards wouldn't fit an AK (presumably, can't say I've tried lol). But then one of the comments on the article says: >Judging by the safeties, I’d guess they are AKs inside. So it could easily be just as Frankenstein on the inside as it is on the outside. >>16182 BEHOLD!
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>>16195 >>15610 >So it could easily be just as Frankenstein on the inside as it is on the outside. But look at the pin pattern around the trigger.
Literally wtf do I say the first time I go to a range? Also, what's a good noob gun?
>>16292 Are you bringing your own firearm or renting? Indoor or outdoor? Do they require you to use range ammo or can you bring your own? Are you going with a knowledgeable friend? Get a .22 pistol, ask them to show you how to use it, practice with about 100 rounds.
>>16293 I don't own any, indoor, range ammo, by myself. Thanks, I didn't know if they'd think i'm retarded for asking how to use it. I like AK-47s for aesthetic reasons, is it less autistic to get an AR-15 in burgerland?
>>16296 Election years are a bad time to buy and tbqh a $200 ruger 10/22 is prolly the best first gun. Ammo outstrips the price of the gun very quickly if you put real use into it. During normal times 5.56 costs about 30¢ a round, 9mm about 20¢, and .22 like 7¢. It's better to shoot often than to have a safe queen. Like any hobby, gun enthusiasts love introducing newbies. Call first, tell them you're new and would like to start with a .22 pistol and ask what if any models they have for rent. Watch youtube videos about that gun. When you actually go ask them to walk you through it again. It's normal and they'll be happy to drone on. AVOID POLITICS, most of these guys love cops and Trump and imperialism and American exceptionalism. If you decide to buy a medium caliber rifle, go with the AR. I like AK's too but ARs are cheaper, softer shooting and more accurate. First gun, tho, I'd get a .22 rifle for fun, or either a 9mm pistol or 12 ga shotgun for home defense. Combloc stuff is for if you decide that you love guns and want a collection.
>>16247 Good catch, I didn't spot that. I was just going off the upper receiver area, the charging handle and Stoner piston(?) perhaps meaning it has a custom bolt/carrier? Gotta remember this region has a history of making guns entirely from scratch by copying milspec guns they have lying around. I know I'm repeating myself here, but they've swapped out a core part of the AK dismantling process with a charging handle. I feel like that has some bearing on its function, they wouldn't bother putting it there if it didn't have a function as it's more effort than the button push disassembly they should have copied.


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